Good travel books can be an essential ingredient for trip preparation as well as a ready reference while on the road. Though there are other travel books on New Zealand, the three below were the ones we used for planning our trip. We ended up packing them all, and used them almost every day as we roamed around the country.
You may click on the book images or titles below for more product information and reviews at Amazon.com.
This guide presents a visual tour of New Zealand. Every page has multiple color photographs so I recommend it to the visually inclined, like myself. The images got me psyched for the adventure ahead. This book is packed with information. As most guide books do, it begins with an overview of NZ including the landscape, flora & fauna but also featuring architecture, National parks & reserves, Maori culture & art, NZ artists & writers, wines, and sporting events. The bulk of the book divides NZ into seven areas with excellent street maps of the major downtown areas and roads maps of interesting areas with suggestions of what to see and do. Geared toward culture more so than off the beaten path adventure. A small guide that easily fits in a purse or day pack.
Our first time using a National Geographic guide book. The author devotes a good 50 pages to the history of NZ and the Maori culture with perspectives of the two islands in terms of the arts & literature, food & drink, and land & landscape. He then divides the two islands into nine areas and interweaves history, interesting facts and tips throughout the book in sidebars. This is a medium size book that’s easy to pop in a day pack. There are color photographs but they are small and fewer than might be expected from National Geographic.
Fodor’s was a gift from a good friend. Due to it’s size we were not planning to bring it along. Once in hand we appreciated all the detail and information it contained so we packed it as well, knowing that traveling by car made it a little easier to have extra stuff.
We arrive in Queenstown in the evening about 7 hours after leaving Dunedin. The Taieri Gorge train takes us part of the way and then a bus completes the trip. Our niece, Jaime, is in Queenstown visiting from Maryland and we are very excited to see her, so we quickly settle in our hotel and rendezvous with her for dinner. A bit groggy from travel and the late hour we walk around the town, checking menus and finally decide on Flame Bar & Grill. Jay is ready for ribs and they have a table free on the second floor balcony with an expansive view of the waterfront. Our server suggests an Australian red to go with the ribs, add a greek salad and we are good to go. Great wine, good food and wonderful conversation catching up with Jaime!
Arriving in the dark to a new destination always adds an element of intrigue. Waking in the morning to a sunny day we are ready to see the stunning setting that we have read about. Queenstown sits on the shore of Lake Wakatipu framed by jagged mountains called The Remarkables. These days tourism is the new gold, and it is a very popular destination for adventure seekers. Jaime has an exciting tandem paraglide, and there is bungee jumping, jet boating, white-water rafting and skiing in the winter.
Waterfront in Queenstown, NZBoats on Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown, NZ
Downtown, The Mall, is an outside area with many restaurants and shops. Even in late February the place is humming with people – sitting in the cafes we hear languages from all over the world. In the afternoon we stroll through the Queenstown Gardens. A nice respite from the downtown area.
Beautiful old tree in the Queenstown Gardens, Queenstown, NZPond in the Queenstown Gardens, Queenstown, NZRose in the Queenstown Gardens, Queenstown, NZSculpture "Fleur" in the Queenstown Gardens, NZ
Our stay in Queenstown is a brief one as is our visit with Jaime who will leave in the morning. On a recommendation from a shop owner, we book reservations at The Bunker for dinner. As the reviews stated it is a hard to find gem, hidden away down a back alley in the middle of the town. But the search is worth it… once inside the intimate dining room I feel removed from the world and ready for the incredible dining experience that is to come. Our server is a pro who guides us well through the wine list and menu. Jay choses the pork belly, Jaime steak and for me, duck. All our entrees are artful presentations featuring heavenly meats that melt in ours mouths. Unable to imagine dessert, Jay orders two dessert drinks for our amusement – a Tiramisu and a Toblerone. They taste divine but the lasting image is of our server preparing them. For movie fans think “Love Actually”, and picture the scene where Mr. Bean takes his time artistically wrapping the bracelet for Alan Rickman with seemingly endless flourishes.
Jaime has one experience left on her Queenstown list, so our last morning together we shuttle up the peak on the Skyline Gondola. A grey sky mutes the image but the view of The Remarkables, the lake and the town below is incredible.
Skyline Gondola, Queenstown, NZView from the top of the Skyline Gondola, Queenstown, NZ
Later in the day storm clouds began collecting over Lake Wakatipu…
Storm brewing over the lake in Queenstown, NZ
Walking back to the hotel from dinner we stopped to watch a local dance class…
Dance lessons in Queenstown, NZ
Our last morning we have a few hours before the airport shuttle picks us up, so we take a walk along the lake into town. Jay craves one last treat from Patagonia Chocolates – they might be known for their chocolates but Jay will remember the ice cream (dulce de leche, chocolate with hazelnut, white chocolate with hazelnut) and I will long for the hot chocolate with fresh ginger. Their teeshirts catch my eye, and being a chocoholic I especially like the tee our server has on, “Save the planet – it’s the only one with chocolate”.
Revived after our 5 nights in Nelson we are ready to head to Christchurch. Jay was there in November/December of 1975 after a summer gig in Antarctica installing some electronics he had designed for a University of MD atmospheric project. We have been thinking about visiting since then, so I am excited to finally see it, and Jay is curious about how it will appear 35 years later.
Leaving Nelson en route to Christchurch, we decided to check out a couple vineyards around Blenheim. Our favorite for the wine was Lawson’s Dry Hills Winery. Visually very modest compared to others, but producing some lovely white wines. We enjoyed their Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Late Harvest Riesling immensely. Decided to buy a bottle of the Pinot Gris to enjoy during the remaining travels and tuck a Riesling away to share with friends back home. During this trip we have driven the coastal routes more often than not, never tiring of our first glimpse of the sea on a new shore. Today we travel down State Highway 1 and experience the South Island’s east coast – this area is known for crayfish, whale watching, seals, dolphins… an abundance of marine life to eat and view. There is stretch of road about 4 km that has signs indicating seals in that area and we spotted a few driving by.
A black sand beach on the way to Christ Church, NZ
The owner of Lawson Winery had suggested we stop at The Store for lunch. It is midway between Blenheim and Kaikoura in the middle of nowhere, located in a scenic spot along the highway (good signage). They have a large outdoor patio out back where we dined in the sun cooled by the Pacific Ocean breezes and entertained by the most aggressive seagulls we have witnessed yet!
After a fun, full day of traveling we arrive at Pomeroy’s on Kilmore, a boutique guest house located inside Christchurch’s ‘Four Avenues’ (just 4 blocks from the city centre) and our resting point for the next 3 nights. Pomeroy’s historic Old Brewery Inn is literally a stone’s throw away next door and once we are checked in we head over for a brew and dinner. Steve Pomeroy, the owner, is often about and ready to see to your every need. Hearing I eat gluten-free he had fresh gluten-free bread brought in from his favorite German bakery (which he had to do twice, because it was so good all the guests ate it). Another great feature of Pomeroy’s – the breakfast room. Every morning they have a continental breakfast of toast, cereal, tea, coffee, fruit, jams, butter… served in a lovely dining room furnished with antiques. Just like home.
Pomeroy's on Kilmore in Christchurch, NZ
Cathedral Square is a casual 15 minute stroll away – although there are many interesting distractions along the way. Our first evening we took a walk into town after dinner and spotted this sculpture – the next morning Jay returned with camera in hand.
A sculptural tribute in Christchurch to firemen worldwide.
This sculpture stands within a dedicated reserve opposite the Central Fire Station on the banks of the Avon River, and was created by Christchurch artist, Graham Bennett. It is a silent tribute to firefighters worldwide who risk their lives daily in the pursuit of their duty.
The plaque reminds us that “Firefighters are always in the front line and never more so than on September 11, 2001, when international terrorists hijacked four domestic American jet airliners and flew two of them, along with their passengers, into the twin towers of New York’s World Trade Center. The two towers imploded and collapsed, and among the more than 2800 dead were 343 New York firefighters. All that remained of the twin towers, and the lost lies within was a mountainous pile of twisted steel and smoking rubble. In May 2002, five steel girders, weighing 5.5 tons were salvaged from the site of the World Trade Center and gifted to the City of Christchurch by the city of New York for use in a public artwork to honor all firefighters worldwide. The suspended component or “spear” in its red hot state fell from the 102nd floor of World Trade Center Tower piercing the subway below”.
As Americans who did not witness the carnage in New York City we were deeply moved to find the girders here, half way around the world. And reminded of the horror and disbelief of that day seeing the destruction done to these massive hunks of steel.
An inner court yard at the Art Center in Christ Church, NZ
Exploring Christchurch by foot, we ended up at the Art Center. It is a hub for arts, crafts and entertainment in Christchurch, and is located in the neo-gothic former University of Canterbury buildings. This particular day is was gray and cool, so we were looking for soup, and found some great homemade black bean soup in one of the cafes here. After lunch we checked out some of the artist studios that inhabit many of the buildings and came across a textile class – kids sewing, quilting and weaving. Jay took some great photos – notice the cool quilt on the wall!
Kids making quilts at the Art Center in Christ Church, NZA boy learns the art of the loom at the Art Center in Christ Church, NZSculpture of a juggler in Christ Church, NZ
A fine rain began as we walked through the Botanical Gardens on our way back to the room. The flowers photograph well, but I was also struck by the variety and beauty of the numerous old trees.
One of the many gardens at the Botanical Garden in Christ Church, NZRoses at the Botanical Garden in Christ Church, NZ
Another day we happened upon a group of Maori performance artists… each woman with a chin tattoo.
Traditional Maori performance group in Christ Church, NZ
A little research revealed the following tale…
The word “tattoo” comes from the Tahitian word “tatau”. Captain James Cook used the word “tattow” when he witnessed tattooing for the first time in Tahiti, in 1769.
According to Māori mythology, tattooing commenced with a love affair between a young man by the name of Mataora (which means “Face of Vitality”) and a young princess of the underworld by the name of Niwareka.
One day however, Mataora beat Niwareka, and she left Mataroa, running back to her father’s realm which was named “Uetonga”.
Mataora, filled with guilt and heartbreak followed after his princess Niwareka. After many trials, and after overcoming numerous obstacles, Mataora eventually arrived at the realm of “Uetonga”, but with his face paint messed and dirty after his voyage. Niwareka’s family taunted and mocked Mataora for his bedraggled appearance. In his very humbled state, Mataora begged Niwareka for forgiveness, which she eventually accepted. Niwareka’s father then offered to teach Mataora the art of tattooing, and at the same time Mataora also learnt the art of Taniko – the plaiting of cloak borders in many colours.
Mataora and Niwareka thus returned together to the human world, bringing with them the arts of ta moko and taniko.
We arrived in Nelson in the afternoon after taking the ferry from Wellington (North Island) to Picton (South Island). Nelson is a charming town with a Victorian flair to many of the homes.
Villa Victoria in Nelson, NZ
Landing in Nelson for 5 nights at the Victoria Villa we look forward to a respite within the vacation. Cooking our own food and driving less – yes! Like most folks we have a certain style of eating at home, which can be hard to replicate when eating out. Our habits tend to lean toward lots of green vegetables and some protein – low on carbohydrates – influenced by my gluten intolerance, with the happy side effect of healthier eating. What has worked well for us in New Zealand is to order one main dish and a side or two of vegetables to share. Note: Fresh string beans are in abundance this time of year and are on many finer restaurant menus as well as in the markets.
Favorite food spots in Nelson…
We can see the Boat Shed Cafe from our rental house and walked over our first night after a long day of travel from Wellington. Ignorant of its popularity we were almost turned away but landed a table for two on the outside deck. Warm and sunny we sampled our first Neudorf Vineyards white wine – a crispy Sauvignon Blanc – that went nicely with my grilled crayfish tail with fennel, chili & lemon and Jay’s grilled prawns with feta, black olives & cress. Our dining neighbors ordered the potato salad side, which looked fabulous, so a few days later we stopped in and picked up an order to go – just like moms and Anitas!
Boat Shed Cafe, Nelson, NZ
Our first morning strolling in Nelson we happened upon the Morrison Street Café and went inside for a coffee. My antennae went up when I saw all the gluten-free options – savory muffins, little fruit nut loaves, brownies… I ordered a coffee and a sampling of the gluten-free goodies – all yummy. We stopped in a few days later during a rainstorm and Jay had an amazing Affogato (two scoops of vanilla gelato with espresso). A very popular cafe for a good reason – good quality and good vibe.
Guytons Seafood, Nelson, NZSmoked Green Lip mussels from Guytons Seafood in Nelson, NZ
Our last day we decided to walk into Nelson for lunch at Hopgoods which several sources had recommended. They were not open for lunch on Monday so we scouted out the surrounding restaurant menus on Trafalgar Street and settled on barDelicious. We enjoyed the young Canadian waitress who suggested a Pinot Gris and Rose wine by the glass and shared her 2010 Olympics enthusiasm. Lunch was delicious and creative – a Caesar Salad with bacon and a poached egg on top, and an equally delicious and fresh Salad Nicoise.
Jay was thumbing through a local book on Nelson arts scene and The Sprig and Fern Tavern caught his eye – no bigscreen TV, a neighborhood hangout, and over by “The Wood” – a park in the foothills on the east side of Nelson. We decide to stop in before dinner for a beer, glass of wine and a bowl of nuts. We pick up on the friendly feel and relax – as we watch the locals playing games and brain teasers, read the historic factoids on the blackboard and have a great conversation.
Neudorf Vineyard sculpture and tasting room
Hanging around the house chilling is hard work… but mid-afternoon we decided to hit the road and head into the wine country that surrounds Nelson. Top on our list was Neudorf Vineyards. Navigating the countryside was challenging and needless to say we got lost, in the best sense of the word… and arrived at the vineyard 5 minutes before closing. Not a problem, we were warmly greeted in the tasting room and relieved when another couple walked in a few minutes later! Once again the Pinot Gris was a favorite. The late afternoon light filtering through the trees invited us to linger and we did.
Neudorf Vineyard, behind tasting roomAn old window at Neudorf Winery
Things to do around Nelson, NZ
Valentine’s Day! An early rising to catch the 9am water taxi to explore the Abel Tasman National Park. For at least 500 years Maori lived along the Abel Tasman coast, gathering food from the sea, estuaries and forests, and growing kumera (sweet potato). Established in 1942 as a park, Abel Tasman is renowned for its golden beaches, sculptured granite cliffs, and world-famous Abel Tasman Coast Track. It was about a 90 minute drive to Kaiteriteri where we met Wilson’s Water Taxi and climbed up the gang plank to head out to Medlands Beach. Within the park one way to get around is by water taxis – they drop you off and pick you up on a very accommodating schedule. They can take you into the heart of the park and literally deposit you on a beach.
Island with seals and birds in Abel Tasman National Park, NZ
Before drop off we took a complete tour of the coastline.
Wilsons Water Taxi, Abel Tasman National Park, NZ
Another ingenious Kiwi invention… a beach friendly gangplank.
Medlands Beach, Abel Tasman National Park, NZ
After a boat tour of the park we got off at Medlands Beach, walked to Bark Bay, and then back to Medlands where the water taxi picked us up a few hours later.
Bark Bay path, Abel Tasman National Park, NZBark Bay beach, Abel Tasman National Park, NZ
Another day we walked to Nelson from our rental house and after lunch in town decided to walk home via Queens Garden. The Gardens formally opened in 1892 to celebrate the Jubilee of Queen Victoria and were inspired by an intimate, Victorian garden. Though the garden is relatively small there is an abundance of magnificent old trees and plantings amidst ponds and a wandering creek. The Suter Gallery, an eclectic art gallery on the western edge of the park, has a cafe that overlooks the garden and provides a tranquil shady place to enjoy a cup of coffee or dessert.
Queens Garden in Nelson, NZ
End of the day, another glorious sunset and the sounds of outdoor opera in Tahunanui Park blowing in on the westerly winds. We have fared well in Nelson.
Villa Victoria, Nelzon, NZSunset view from Villa Victoria, Nelson, NZ
Often the motels in NZ have laundry facilities and that is where I was a few hours before hitting the road for Wellington. The old washer/dryer were quite slow and a very friendly lady from Wellington stopped by with her wash. She was curious about our travels and when she heard that we were off to Wellington, suggested we cut over to the westcoast and drive south along the Tasman Sea to Wellington… which we did. At her suggestion we took a western route through Palmerston North and down the westcoast, with beautiful views of the Tasman Sea… stopping in Paraparaumu for a break and some ice cream.
We arrived in Wellington in late afternoon. The country driving of the past week was replaced with fast moving close quarters rush hour traffic. Wellington is the capital of New Zealand and the seat of government. My acquaintance from the laundry room had also suggested we enter the city by the ferry terminals and drive along the waterfront. Doing that we passed through the Parliament district and we saw some fine historic buildings which set the tone for the city.
We checked out two hotels and decided to stay at the Museum Hotel. The Museum Hotel was initially located on the other side of the road, moving to its present site in 1993. Facing demolition to make way for the new Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa, the 5 storey, 3500 ton structure seemed doomed, until Chris Parkin, the owner, began to investigate the possibility of relocating the entire structure. The hotel made a 120-metre journey down an inner city street on railway tracks.
Museum Hotel, Wellington, NZTe Papa Museum, Wellington, NZ
Keeping with its museum past, wonderful art can be found throughout the hotel. Here’s a picture of the lobby reception area:
Museum Hotel - lobby, Wellington, NZ
Wellington is a very walkable town. As we found through much of New Zealand, outdoor sculpture abounds.
Floating sculpture in Wellington, NZ
During an evening stroll we came upon this gentleman walking his dog. The stairs behind lead to Boulcott Bistro.
Wellington Sculpture - man and dog, NZ
We had a fine meal at Boulcott Bistro. The place is buzzing with locals. The food was fresh and simply delicious. We shared a Snapper on a smoked fish brandade, in a pool of red pepper puree decorated round the edges by a clam nage, accompanied by fresh green beens with basil butter and broccoli with lemon and toasted almonds. As we have at each evening meal, we tried wines from the region – tonight is was a Dogpoint Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough (just northeast from Wellington).
Boulcott Bistro, Wellington, NZ
After an early dinner we took a stroll along the waterfront…
Wellington Waterfront, NZ
lots of action…
Canoe team bring their canoe in for the evening, Wellington, NZ
and a quote that sums up the spirit of the town…
Quote by Wellington poet Lauris Edmond - part of Wellington writers walk
The drive from Napier to the wine country is a scenic and easy drive, just 11 miles south. While in Auckland, a local wine merchant in the Stables suggested half a dozen wineries that were his favorites. Among them, were Clearview, Craggy Range, Black Barn, and Te Mata Estate. He recommended Black Barn for lunch.
Clearview had a selection of over 20 wines they were pouring. It was a bit overwhelming, but we had a taste of most and by enlarge enjoyed them. Clearview is located on the coast and has a nice outdoor restaurant.
Moving inland, taking a backroad route to Craggy Range, we felt like we were driving through the countryside of old Napa Valley – rolling hills, sheep, endless vineyards, shady lanes… We could see the towering Craggy Range to our right and eventually crossed over the Tukituki river and drove back north a mile or so to Craggy Range Winery. There we tasted their Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot – all excellent. We strolled the beautiful grounds and ended up making a reservation for dinner at their restaurant.
Craggy Range Winery near Napier, NZ
Onward in to North Havelock for a bit of shopping and searching for picnic foods at a local gourmet grocery store (Bellatino’s). Picked up a yummy selection of cheeses, fruit, smoked salmon…
Onward to Black Barn. Loved all their wines, but especially the barrel fermented Chardonnay. It had a black pepper nose and crisp light grapefruit taste that was unique and satisfying. Though we don’t like Chardonnay as it is generally made in California, the New Zealand Chardonnay’s are very good – drier and finer tasting.
Finally, we went to Te Mata Winery, just before closing at 5 pm. As with most of the wineries, we tasted many extraordinary whites. All the wineries are producing reds too, but most of them are not working for us. They are designed for cellaring, and are not read for easy enjoyment now.
We had an hour or so before Dinner at Craggy range, so we drove to the top of Te Mata Peak. It’s a 15 minute drive to the summit and the view of the vineyards and hills beyond is breathtaking.
Here’s a view to the west, with a storm blowing through:
Storm entering valley, seen from Te Mata peak, NZ
Here’s a view to the East with Craggy Range winery seen in the middle-ground along side the Tukituki river.
Te Mata Peak near Napier, NZ
Dinner a Craggy Range was very fine. We shared a woodfire roasted pork chop, with roasted garlic, and had a carafe of their wonderful pinot – grapes from the Otago region of the South Island.
Reading about the Art Deco architecture and beautiful coastline attracted us to Napier. We later learned that the town had been almost completely destroyed by a large earthquake in 1931 and in rebuilding the townspeople went wild for Art Deco!
Arriving in town without a reservation we canvassed the waterfront which is lined with accommodations of all sorts. Our first choice, Pebble Beach, was booked but they recommended the Shoreline Motel which had an oceanfront room with a nice deck where we ate breakfast both mornings. The hotel manager, another friendly, helpful New Zealander, suggested the Mediterranean Wine Bar & Bistro for dinner. After a day of driving we relished the stroll down the waterfront to the restaurant and enjoyed some delicious red lentil encrusted shrimps and tender grilled lamb.
The next morning we headed to the National Aquarium which is on the waterfront and was walkable from our hotel. Feedings are at 1o:00 am so we quickly made our way over in time to see that. There is a cool moving conveyor that tunnels through the enormous tanks of fish, sharks, rays, and large crayfish. We also enjoyed the kiwi area – a large dark habitat where several kiwi live. Not sure how the kiwi birds ended up at the aquarium but we enjoyed spotting them and getting a sense of how they root around with their long beaks. They are very cute. Sorry, no pictures allowed in the kiwi room.
It was pouring when we came out of the aquarium so we dashed back to the hotel and then drove into town for a bite of lunch. Afterwards we walked around the town, picked up some fresh plums and nuts at a local health food store and then headed to wine country – our real attraction to the area.
Aquarium Sea Tunnel, Napier, NZAquarium in Napier, NZ
Today is a short travel day – we are leaving Hahei in the Coromandel and driving to Mt. Maunganui. Right out of town we stopped at Cathedral Cove Macadamias. Our first time seeing a macadamia tree, we learned about the challenge of growing and harvesting them in New Zealand. They have a small stand on the farm selling their various products. We bought some of their nut coatings for gifts and ourselves – Macadamia Dukkah, Lemon Kelp Sprinkle, and Chili Kelp Sprinkle. And for breakfast a jar of Macadamia spread. It felt good to support a local farmer.
Around noon we stopped in Whangamata for lunch and chose the Cafe Rossini because the lunch special sounded good and they had wi-fi. The day’s special was a Thai steak salad, which we shared, a tasty spicy marinated steak on fresh salad greens.
Back on the road we soon arrived in Tauranga and checked into our hotel, across the street from Mt. Maunganui. This formerly volcanic mountain rises over 700 feet next to a beautiful white sand beach. The area is filled with cafes and we enjoyed some gelato during the afternoon heat before walking around the base of the mountain – the “easy” walk. The steep hike to the summit we would save until morning. Walking around the base we noticed that sheep were grazing on areas of the mountain. Jay had commented earlier on the practicality of the New Zealanders – and here was a perfect example – a mountain in an urban setting shared by locals, tourists and sheep.
Looking for a break from rich food we stumbled upon Zeytin Cafe, a bustling Mediterranean café on The Strand serving very reasonably priced good food and generous portions. The next day we returned for a carry out lunch to take with us on our road trip to Napier.
Wild grasses on the trek up Mount MaunganuiView from the summit of Mount Maunganui
New Zealanders impress us as a very friendly and helpful bunch. Several people in Hahei had mentioned a great dinner spot in Whitianga called Salt. Whitianga (pronounced Fitianga) is a short 15 minute drive north of Hahei. The best part of the journey is the little ferry that takes you across the estuary into town. It costs NZ$2 and lasts about 2 minutes.
Whitianga Ferry
Salt is two blocks from the ferry, waterside, overlooking the marina. The place was bustling with thirsty hungry people, all seated outside on a perfect summer eve. The menu offered about five main courses and each one was tempting. Our waitress offered her favorite – Duck cooked two ways with pumpkin puree and bok choy. After a long hot day I was happy to be swayed. Jay was in the mood for seafood and creatively chose three appetizers/entrees… a sublime Kingfish Sashimi with mirin and fresh wasabi, local oysters (raw with shallots & white balsamic vinegar and tempura with aioli drizzle) and a buttery crayfish tail. Each dish was perfection and suggested wines both from the Marlborough region were spot on – The Edge Pinot with the duck, and a Jules Taylor Savignon Blanc with the seafood. We had pledged we would not have dessert… oh well, the Chocolate Delice with homemade vanilla ice and crème anglaise somehow graced our table… heaven.
After successfully navigating the roadways on the left side from Auckland we arrived in Thames for lunch! Our first look at the Coromandel area – lovely terrain with green seas, tropical lush vegetation, big skies full of clouds. We popped into a small organic food co-op on Pollen Street for some almond butter and rice crackers. I must eat gluten-free and I am finding NZ is very gluten-free friendly. Walking along Pollen Street we stopped at Danby’s for lunch and I was served a grilled chicken sandwich on gluten free bread! (not very common in the U.S. as yet). My grilled chicken, avocado, and fresh tomato sandwich was yummy as was Jay’s chicken sate wrap. Danby’s young wait staff was very friendly and helpful.
Danby's Cafe in Thames, NZ
After lunch we continued driving north along Rt 25 to Tapu where we took a back road shortcut over to Coroglen, and then Hahei. Much of the backroad was unpaved but drivable if one is alert, cautious and up for a bit of adventure. We were surprised to see wild hydrangea growing – bright blue – among the tropical foliage.
Pulling into Hahei we began to look for lodging. After some searching we found a Garden Studio at the Cathedral Cove Lodge Villas part of the Hahei Holiday Resort. Simple and clean the room is just a stone’s throw from the beach and was available for two nights. Yahoo! Jay quickly headed off to the beach for a swim and some reading.
Tonight we dined at The Church – a restaurant in Hahei serving “smart” food and housed in a historic Methodist Church. Both of us choose the evening’s special – baked Hapuka on a bed of rocket and black olive parsley risotto. Hapuka is a meaty white fish – sort of a cross between snapper and grouper. Delicious. Paired with the fish was an Amisfield Savingnon Blanc from the central Otago… quite lively on the palate with overtones of grapefruit – a perfect pairing with the fish.
Flowers at The Church Restaurant in Hahei
Friday morning we headed over to Cathedral Cove, about a mile north of where we were staying. It was nice arriving early – parking was readily available, it was the cooler part of the day, and the trails down to the cove had fewer people on them. The hike down takes about 40 minutes, mostly down hill. We brought plenty of water for the trek. On the way down, the intense sound of locust were ever present, and resident grazing cattle would frequently be spied path-side.
Cows on the trail down to Cathedral Cove
The cove slowly reveals itself, first through the sound of the surf filtering through the trees, then glimpses of limestone bluffs rising from the ocean, worn by millennia of pounding waves. There are two beaches, divided by the “cathedral” – a cavernous hole worn through the bluff by the sea. At low tide you can walk through it, passing from one beach to the other. This is a beautiful spot, and a great place to swim and body surf.
Cathedral Cove, in Hahei, NZCathedral Cove, in Hahei, NZ
The excellent Auckland Art Gallery is located in the middle of downtown, just west of Albert Park. A short walk from our hotel (Sky City Grand).
My favorite exhibit was Picturing History: Goldie to Cotton – Gallery notes say: Stories of origin and arrival, significant events, and the transformation of the land of New Zealand are just some of the themes explored in this collection exhibition. Drawing from across the historic, modern and contemporary New Zealand collections this exhibition considers how artists have responded to and interpreted New Zealand history through their work.
Te Tohu Tuatahi
While in no way a ‘History of New Zealand’, it offers idiosyncratic glimpses into moments from New Zealands history, both real and imagined. Reflecting artists’ interests, the Gallery’s collection and the different ways artists have responded to the past. Capturing key moments from our recent past, as well as stories of the exploration and encounters of Maori and Pakeha, the contentious history of our land and its development, along with those people made famous by such historic events.
A special focus within the exhibition is the eruption of Mt Tarawera in 1886, and the impact the devastation it wrought had on the country.
The exhibition features works by Charles Goldie, Gottfried Lindauer, Colin McCahon and Shane Cotton, some of New Zealand’s most celebrated artists of the past and present, amongst others.
Today our New Zealand adventure begins! Arrive in Auckland at 4:30am on a non-stop overnight New Zealand Air flight from San Francisco. A little disoriented but fairly well rested we take a shuttle bus to the Skycity Grand Hotel. After waiting a few hours to check-in (which we expected given that we arrived around 6am) a very gracious manager upgraded us to a 15th floor harbor view room. The Skycity Grand Hotel is connected to the Convention Center and good rates can be found online. It offers a quiet, calm atmosphere with a modern sophisticated setting. In contrast, the Skycity Hotel across the street has a bustling high-energy atmosphere that revolves around the Sky Tower and includes an iSight tourist information desk, many restaurants and a casino.
Auckland is a walking friendly city – in an afternoon we took in Quay Street and the waterfront, Albert Park and the Auckland Art Gallery. Our early morning shuttle ride took us through Auckland Domain the oldest and largest park in the city.
Gorgeous flower beds in Albert Park, Auckland, New Zealand
This guide presents a visual tour of New Zealand. Every page has multiple color photographs so I recommend it to the visually inclined, like myself. The images got me psyched for the adventure ahead. This book is packed with information. As most guide books do, it begins with an overview of NZ including the landscape, flora & fauna but also featuring architecture, National parks & reserves, Maori culture & art, NZ artists & writers, wines, and sporting events. The bulk of the book divides NZ into seven areas with excellent street maps of the major downtown areas and roads maps of interesting areas with suggestions of what to see and do. Geared toward culture more so than off the beaten path adventure. A small guide that easily fits in a purse or day pack.
Our first time using a National Geographic guide book. The author devotes a good 50 pages to the history of NZ and the Maori culture with perspectives of the two islands in terms of the arts & literature, food & drink, and land & landscape. He then divides the two islands into nine areas and interweaves history, interesting facts and tips throughout the book in sidebars. This is a medium size book that’s easy to pop in a day pack. There are color photographs but they are small and fewer than might be expected from National Geographic.
Fodor’s was a gift from a good friend. Due to it’s size we were not planning to bring it along. Once in hand we appreciated all the detail and information it contained so we packed it as well, knowing that traveling by car made it a little easier to have extra stuff.
